introducing chicks to the coop.

when introducing chicks to the coop you have to spread out their intro to the coop by letting them have visits in the coop a couple hours a day; usually a week before you permanently keep them in there. things to do and be aware of:
--play days. i kept my chicks (when they were around five-six weeks old) in the coop/run for a couple hours everyday during the afternoon before they permanently stayed outside. be sure to check on them frequently. and even be in the coop/run with them for a little bit so they know its okay. and they are really fun to watch explore. make sure they have food/water and can't get themselves into anything that is harmful to them. if your wire for the run is big enough for them to fit through just keep them in the coop during the play days until they are big enough or place smaller wire around the perimeter of the larger wire (it only needs to be a foot or two high). just make sure they have ventilation in the coop so they don't get claustrophobic and have access to fresh air. remember, once the chicks have a play day outside they will want to go out everyday so be prepared for that commitment or else they start to get really rowdy. mine did!
--the first night. when the chicks are at least six weeks of age (i kept mine inside until they were eight weeks, so they were feathered out), you can transfer them in the coop at night or let them be in the run/coop during the day and then make sure they are in the coop at night. they don't need perches for the first week or two they are in the coop, but make sure the floor is cushioned with wood shavings or something similar so they can stay warm on the ground during the night. if your nights are very cold where you live i would keep a heat lamp in the coop during the nights for your chicks don't get sick or die of cold. also make sure there are no drafts in the coop and that the coop is completely safe of predators.

the chicks

hey! so if you decide to get your chickens as chicks, here are some tips for taking proper care of them:
--the box. it is important to have adequate spacing and protection for the chicks while inside also. what i did was use a big box about four feet long that i divided to make a smaller space when the chicks were very small. then over time i increased their space as they got bigger. it is also a good idea to have some type of lid (wire is best so they can still get air and sunlight) on the box so other pets can't get in and the chicks can't get out. i didn't have a lid so my chicks figured out that they can perch on the sides of the box. we have had a couple accidents with them falling off of flying out of the box.
--where. while the chicks are under seven weeks old, they should definitely stay inside the house. i kept my chicks inside my dad's office next to a window so they were able to get sunlight, and i kept the door closed constantly so our cats wouldn't get to the chicks. its also good to find a place where there are no drafts and have a heater in the room.
--warmth. keeping chicks warm is extremely important. many chicks die from hypothermia and cold drafts. to keep their area warm get a heating lamp (like for reptiles, or any lamp that produces heat) and put it in the chicks area so they can stay warm but without coming into contact with the lamp. usually when the chicks are under a week, they will want the lamp to be about 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit and gradually reduce the heat as they get older (by either changing the lamp/bulb, or moving the lamp further away from the chicks). i stopped using the lamp when the were six weeks old so they could get used to no lamp at night beforethey started sleeping outside. ways to tell if there is too much heat is if the chicks are far away from the lamp and spread out when they are sleeping and ways to tell if there is not enough heat is if the chicks are huddled together directly under the lamp constantly.
--toys. it is good to have some kind of padded flooring in the box. i used wood shavings, about three inches so the chicks could nest in it during the night. i also had some shiny or colorful objects for them to peck at. i brought them leaves, small branches, fresh veggies. though when they are very young they won't need much entertainment because they will be sleeping a lot. when they are about 4-5 weeks, put in some kind of sturdy perch in there box about 3-4 inches off the ground.
--food you will need to buy or make a miniature chicken feeder for the chicks to put inside the box. you will need to buy them the special protein chick starter, and constantly refill feeder when empty-which may be multiple times a day. the water should be far away from the light so it doesn't get hot. you want the water to be at room temp, use drinking water. immediately refill if anytime poop gets in so the chicks don't get diseases, refill every day and always keep full. some lettuce and fruits to give the chicks is good-but while this makes them healthier, they won't grow at super speed or become "big chickens", this doesn't mean they are small, just normal size, and by giving them other food serves as a distraction during the day. but it is okay if they don't eat it. there are foods to give and not to give them so look up in books or on the web (also in my post "chicken food do's and don'ts" will help). a great book to buy is "hobby farms: backyard chickens" ($15?) at island seed and feed.
--problems. all babies aren't perfect, and need lots of care and help, so don't expect this to be all fun. 1) a common problem chicks get is the pasty butt. this is from their poop drying on their butt (vent) and preventing them from pooping once its dried. to solve this get a warm wet cloth and gently rub the dried poop, or try to pick it off but it could hurt them by pulling out some feathers. 2) some chicks may be picked on by the other chicks which can prevent them from eating or sleeping. so if this continues and you notice the bullied chick is starting to have trouble help it out and put it in a separate place for it to eat for a couple minutes to give it break time. or put the bully chick/s in a separate area for a little while. don't keep them apart for more than 10 minutes at a time, so they don't get cold or pushed out of the group even more. if anything worse happens look it up online http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/BRKRaisingChicks.html http://www.birdcareco.com/English/Arts/Breed_arts/Chick/Problems.html or email me at gracie.rid@gmail.com
--handling. it is good to hold the chicks frequently and hand feed them so they can become familiar with you and know that you are their 'mommy'. don't overwhelm them with love and be sure to give them plenty of rest while they are very young. make sure you are with little kids holding the chicks. the chicks are very fragile and can easily be squeezed too hard. always be calm and quiet around them.and don't let other animals come into contact with the chicks because they are very susceptible to disease at this age

and remember that the chicks must stay inside for eight weeks before they are moved to the coop.

the coop

the coop is also a very important part of your chicken establishment. the coop has many purposes: sleeping quarters, protection from rain/cold, food, laying eggs, perching, and protection from predators during the night.

things to have inside the coop are:

1) nesting boxes-place where the chickens lay their eggs. need one nesting box for every two-three chickens. should be at least 12'' by 12'' by 12''. mine are 14'' by 14'' and 14''. if you have banties (miniature chickens) them shrink the box size a couple inches. inside the nesting box put plenty of hay or wood shavings for the chickens to nestle in when laying the egg-this also prevents cracked eggs. most nesting boxes are built into the coop and provide easy access to the eggs by the outside of the coop. if there is a lot of

poop in the boxes replace the shavings-but that should not occur much at all. i have replaced the shavings only once so far this year.

2) perches-must be at least two feet above the ground in a coop people can stand in, but no more than four feet high. and make sure the highest perch has the most room, because they will all want to be on the highest "branch". and make sure they have plenty of space to fly or jump down. for standard chickens have the perch be around three-four inches wide.

3) feeders- need a water feeder and a pellet feeder inside the coop safe from outdoor elements. clean water frequently, i clean the water once a week and i have si

x chickens. make sure the feeders

are off the ground at the height of the chicken's shoulder. you should have at least one food and one water feeder for every 10 or less chickens

4) ground-it is best to have mulch, or dirt on the ground for chickens to be able to scratch and take dust baths on during rainy days. and makes poop easier to clean. you can have a wood floor, but make sure there is some kind of bedding like hay on the wood so you can clean poop. 5) protection- make sure the coop is securely sealed to protect them from weather and predators. my coop is all wood with small welded wire windows. and has a latch for the door. 6) ventilation- make sure the coop has access to oxygen during the day to air out the ammonia and smell, and frequently clean poop from the previous night everyday. i use a hand shovel and hand broom to scoop poop inside a bucket that i empty every week into the compost. ALWAYS wash hands thoroughly after doing this!!! and wear gloves.

7) doors-there must be a small opening (1'x1' at least) for the chickens to enter and l

eave between the coop and run throughout the day. you have a choice of securing

that doggy door at night, or if the run is completely secured then you can leave it open. make sure you can secure the human doors to the coop and run completely so no predators get in.

8) coop size-there are all different coop sizes and styles to see on the Internet that will fit your lifestyle and chicken quantity-remember, the simpler the better! each chicken should have at least 1.5'x2' of space in the coop.

i have drawn a typical backyard coop for 2-4 hens. this one is not a walk-in coop. and can be propped off the ground or not. the picture is one that is, because it is most common for small coops. you may see other coops that are very nice-like a person could live in them- or very complicated looking. dont worry about this! the chickens dont care, so you can make the coop as simple and minimalist as you want, but still fits their needs.

or you can go to

http://poultryone.com/articles/housing.html

http://www.backyardchickens.com/coopdesigns.html

to help you design your own coop

Recourses

hey here are some websites to look at for taking care of chickens:

mypetchicken.com***
backyardchickens.com***
hobbyfarms.com (this is also a great magazine to get for farming)
freechickencoopplans.com ***

and if you're a Santa Barbara local, Island Seed and Feed (in old town Goleta) is a great place to get all pet, poultry, and garden supplies-you can also order chickens there

chicken pros and cons

Cons:
-messy! what most people don't expect when getting chickens is how much work it is. lots of poop. a good way of dealing with the poop is to compost it. gardens love it!
-loud. whenever my girls lay an egg they are very proud and have to tell the whole world about their accomplishment. so make sure your neighbors are okay with the sounds of farm life.
-predators. chickens have many predators: foxes, dogs, coyotes, raccoons, opossums, hawks, sometimes cats, people, other pets. make sure your chickens are safe from these guys.
-roaming. chickens are natural foragers and will often escape or get lost roaming. solution: an enclosed run, or a fencing system that keeps them where you want them to be. remember chickens can fit through very small areas so make sure its chicken proof.
-flies. flies are attracted to poop and pooping is one of the best things chickens can do. solution: fly traps, ordering bugs that eat fly larva, keeping the chicken area dry, frequently cleaning the run/coop.
-money. while buying a chick costs about $4-7, taking care of them can cost hundreds. a good idea, if money is an issue, is to go thrifty and buy used products for your girls. ex: wood for the coop, fencing, old wood ladders for perching, etc. but you can't do that with food. buying in bulk organic laying pellets costs around $25 for fifty pounds, which will last around 2 months for a flock of 5-8. growing your own veggies for the chickens is another great way to save $. also if your chicken gets sick you may need to spend $ for medicine.
-naughty. if your beautiful gardens don't want to get demolished or nice outdoor furniture/patio doesn't want to be pooped on, fencing can really come in handy. put fencing around your plants that chickens have access to because it will be gone in just days. and if you don't want to scrub poop of the porch don't learn the hard way like we did and use that good ol' chicken wire! you may also need to clip their wings if they figure out that they can "fly".

Pros:
-eggs! it is always so rewarding when collecting the many chicken eggs at the end of the day. and home raised chicken eggs definitely taste a lot better!
-"the girls": while being around my girls i have noticed their many funny personalities, and how funny they look and act. it's also fun when owning many different breeds and seeing how they interact with you and each other. and its always rewarding when they run up to you wanting attention.
-healthy. raising your own chickens are a lot more healthy than buying the chicken eggs at the store. there is more nutrition and less cholesterol in the eggs. because your chickens are privileged to exercising and eating a variety of foods.
-saving chickens. having your own chickens is also helping the cause of animal rights. the eggs you get from the store are from chickens who live in dark small battery cages and often die from cannibalism, trampling, disease, and being brutally treated by the workers. just go to GoVeg.com and see how people are treating animals.
-farm starter. chickens are great farm starter pets and if you love animals you will find yourself in heaven.
-fertilizer. chicken poop is a great fertilizer for gardens and will make your veggies taste all the more better!
-helping the environment. because you are raising your own chickens in your own backyard you are saving many different earth recourse's including electricity, gas, decreasing pollution, and more! and it also brings up awareness to issues about animals and our environment.
-fun! having chickens have been a blast! they are a big hit with my friends, family, and neighbors!
-pest control. having chickens roam around your backyard is a great organic way of getting rid of unwanted bugs.

the run

while you are in the process of finding your chicken it is extremely important that you have the proper housing for them. if you get chicks or have them now, you'll begin to keep them outside at at least six weeks of age- or until they are completely feathered out so they can stay warm during the night. if your chickens will not be free range (meaning they can roam where they please) then it is important to have an adequate enclosed space for them. five square feet per chicken is ideal, but that ends up being a big run (the outside area of the coop, the chicken pen) if you have more than a couple chickens. so judge what you think is okay, but remember the happier the chickens, the more and the better the eggs! also if you keep your chickens in the run 24/7 it is important that

they are occupied throughout the day. in my run are branches for them to perch on, leaves and mulch for them to forage, a doggy door so they can freely go in and out of the coop (the inside part) as they please, and while they are in the run, they are given lots of fruits and veggies to eat. in the run make sure they have access to sunlight. sunlight gives the chickens an immune boosting hormone called melatonin-the better their immune system the more healthy they are and more healthy their eggs are. also make sure you have easy access inside the run in case of an emergency, and to clean it. making sure their run and coop is clean is very important. this maintains a healthy environment for both chicken and human-and it keeps the back yard less stinky, and less flies! predators are also a main concern with chickens because their only defense is to run and hide, but also a sturdy run. we use welded wire for out chicken run, instead of the twisted wire that is commonly called chicken wire-raccoons and other fingered animals can easily rip that apart and attack your chickens. so make sure the wire you get is all predator proof. there are many websites that will show you many different types of chicken coops, just type in chicken coop designs and you will see many different styles of coops/runs that fit your lifestyle.

Chicken Chicken

Hey! this is a pic of my lil' sis Avery and four out of six of our girls, from left: Edith, Belle, Lucy, Francine. these girls are very happy and get lots of greens and get to roam much of the day. the other two girls are Gerty (my dad named her) and Valentine because we got them on valentine's day this year. when starting out with chicks, make sure you hold them and give them lots of attention so they can familiarize with you and become easier to handle in the future. if starting out with pullets (hens under a year), or any aged hen, still treat them with love and give attention to them. this makes them more happy and increases their egg production. you'll read in books or on websites that hens laying three to four eggs a week is really good-but it makes all the difference when they lay at least six to seven a week! of course it is hard for an owner to become that intimate with a large flock, so priority is to give them a variety of fresh veggies and fruits, and give them enough space to roam-this lets them use their natural instincts of foraging on the ground and it also helps with bug/pest control! you'll notice in my picture that all four chickens look different, because they are all different breeds. we have four out of out six chickens that are different breeds: Rhode Island Reds, Barred Rock (Dominique), light Brahma, and an Ameraucana. it your looking for good egg layers Rhode Island Reds/Whites, and leghorns are the top quantity layers-but i would recommend RIRs because they are more docile and friendly than leghorns (Lucy in the pic is a RIR). but these aren't the only breeds, there are hundreds of different chicken breeds. a good website to go to is mypetchicken.com and they'll help you find what chicken is best for you.

About me and "the girls"

Hey! so i just decided today (3/16/09) that I'll start a blog about me and my chickens that will hopefully be useful to beginners with chickens or for folks that are thinking about getting chickens. to start off, i love animals, and asked for chickens for my sixteenth bday, so I've had my "girls" (that's chicken talk for flock, or hens) for just over a year and its been quite an adventure! i am still so happy that i have chickens, and have learned so much over this past year. there's lots of chicken stuff in my blog like pics, all about..., stories, etc. though having chickens can be a blast, it's still a lot of work-so you really have to like the animal to be able to care for it properly-like with all animals. so i hope you have fun but also find my blog useful for talking care of chickens.